Paging the Experts: A Reproducible Characterization of Flash-Backed MoE Inference on iPhone

Sparse activation reduces mixture-of-experts computation without eliminating the need to store all experts. We present Routide, a Swift/MLX runtime that executes the text path of a pinned public Qwen3.6-35B-A3B quantized checkpoint while keeping expert weights in iPhone storage and a byte-budgeted subset in memory. We characterize cache-policy sensitivity, numerical comparison boundaries, and measurement limits. Across five recorded 128-token workloads, fixed-route replay gives 0.00% demand hits with a 512 MiB LRU cache, 18.80% with seeded random eviction at the same budget, and 38.58% with 576 MiB LRU. The apparent capacity cliff is therefore a policy/workload interaction, not a universal memory requirement. Same-runtime Mac controls preserve generated sequences across eviction and asynchronous prefetch, including 2,560 exact token comparisons and 10,334 speculative loads. In contrast, complete resident-Python versus recorded-phone sequences disagree on all five tested cases, precluding a general numerical equivalence claim. Two separately scoped iOS 27 memory protocols observe sampled process-footprint peaks of 1.87-2.32 GiB on short prompts and 2.39-2.73 GiB on one longer prompt. We retain a thermal stopping event, negative timing comparisons, and a single qualified whole-device power estimate. These results establish bounded feasibility and identify limitations that a deployment claim must not hide.